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October 2026
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  • Ten Minutes at the Dock: A Standing-Rigging Check Worth Doing

    Standing rigging is one of those systems that can look fine from six feet away and still deserve a much closer look. The good news is that you do not need to climb the mast to make a useful first pass. A slow walk around the deck can catch loose hardware, corrosion, broken wire strands, and chainplate problems before they turn into bigger issues.

    Sailboat masts and standing rigging at a marina

    One thing that becomes clearer when you start paying attention to rigging is that the wire itself is only part of the system. The pins, turnbuckles, terminals, chainplates, and mast fittings all share the load. A simple inspection works best when you look at the whole load path instead of just staring up at the shrouds.

    Start at eye level and work down

    Pick one shroud or stay and follow it from the lowest section you can reach down to its deck attachment. Then move around the boat in the same direction so you do not accidentally skip one.

    • Look closely where the wire enters a swaged or mechanical terminal. Broken strands, pitting, cracks, or deformation deserve attention.
    • Check that clevis pins are fully seated and actually secured with the proper cotter pin, ring, or other intended retainer.
    • Inspect turnbuckles for bent parts, damaged threads, corrosion, and missing locking hardware. The barrel should not be free to unwind on its own.
    • Look at the chainplate where it enters the deck. Cracked or failing sealant, rust streaks, movement, or staining belowdecks can point to water intrusion or corrosion that deserves a closer inspection.

    A rag can tell you something your eyes miss

    On accessible wire, gently wiping a light cloth or tissue along the strand can help reveal a broken wire that is hard to see. If it snags, stop and inspect the area closely rather than running a bare hand over it. Those tiny broken strands can be surprisingly sharp.

    Also sight up the mast from the dock or deck. You are not trying to tune the rig by eye; you are simply looking for something obviously out of line, a spreader that looks wrong, loose hardware, or a shroud that has developed a kink. Binoculars or a phone camera with a good zoom can help with a basic look aloft, but they do not replace a hands-on inspection by a qualified rigger.

    Know where the owner check ends

    BoatUS recommends regular standing-rigging inspections and notes that terminals, chainplates, and older wire rigging deserve particular scrutiny. Seldén likewise calls for checking stays and shrouds for failed strands and inspecting terminals, toggles, rigging screws, and clevis pins for wear, distortion, or cracks.

    If you find a crack, a broken strand, meaningful pitting, a bent fitting, obvious chainplate corrosion, unexplained movement, or anything that simply looks wrong, treat that as a reason to stop guessing and bring in a professional rigger. The same applies when the rigging age is unknown or well into its service life. Replacement intervals vary with rigging type, use, environment, and manufacturer guidance, so there is no single age number that should substitute for an actual inspection.

    The useful habit is not trying to become a rigging surveyor in ten minutes. It is learning what normal looks like on your own boat so that a new rust streak, loose pin, cracked seal, or damaged strand stands out immediately.

    Sources / Further Reading

    Featured photo: boris misevic / Unsplash.

  • Don’t Just Hear the Bilge Pump — Make Sure It Moves Water

    A bilge pump can sound perfectly healthy and still fail at the one job that matters: moving water out of the boat. The motor can spin while the strainer is clogged, the discharge is restricted, the float switch is stuck, or the hose is sending water somewhere it should not.

    One thing that becomes clearer when you dig into bilge systems is that listening for the motor is a very incomplete test. The useful check is end-to-end: water enters the bilge, the automatic control reacts, the pump moves it, and you actually see water leave the boat.

    A better dockside test

    • Look into the bilge first. Remove loose debris, hair, bits of wire tie, sludge, or anything that could block the pump intake or float switch.
    • Check that the pump and automatic switch are firmly mounted and that the switch can move freely without catching a hose or wire.
    • Use the manual control and confirm that water is actually discharged overboard. Don’t stop at hearing the motor.
    • Test the automatic function using the method specified by the pump or switch manufacturer. For a conventional float switch, that may mean carefully lifting the float. Some electronic switches use a different test procedure.
    • Watch the discharge. Weak flow, unusual cycling, or water returning to the bilge deserves investigation.

    BoatUS recommends verifying actual pumping rather than simply switching on an electric pump and listening to it. Its maintenance guidance also emphasizes keeping the bilge clean because debris and oily sludge can clog pumps and interfere with automatic switches.

    Look beyond the pump itself

    The hose and wiring are part of the system too. Inspect the discharge hose for kinks, chafe, loose clamps, and poor support. Look at electrical connections for corrosion and make sure connections are kept out of normal bilge water. If the installation uses a vented loop or other anti-siphon arrangement, inspect it according to its manufacturer’s instructions.

    A pump’s advertised capacity is not what you should assume you are getting aboard the boat. Hose length, bends, vertical lift, fittings, voltage, and installation details all affect real output. That is another reason an actual discharge test tells you more than the label on the pump.

    One small habit worth keeping

    Make the bilge check part of the normal walk-through when you visit the boat. A clean bilge also makes changes easier to notice: unexplained water, a pump cycling more often than usual, or a new drip becomes obvious sooner.

    Safety note: If you find damaged wiring, overheated connections, a questionable below-waterline discharge arrangement, or a pump system that does not operate reliably, correct the problem before relying on the boat. Use the pump manufacturer’s instructions and appropriate marine electrical standards for repairs; fuse and wire requirements vary by pump and installation.

    Sources / Further Reading

  • Before You Blame the Battery: Check the Connections

    A slow starter or mysteriously weak 12-volt system does not always mean the battery is finished. Sometimes the battery is fine and the connection is the problem.

    One thing that becomes clearer when you start tracing boat electrical problems is how much trouble a little resistance can cause. Corroded or loose battery connections create voltage drop, and a connection that looks acceptable at a glance can still perform badly under the heavy load of an engine starter.

    A two-minute dockside check

    • Look at the terminals. White or green buildup, dampness, loose hardware, damaged cable insulation, or heat discoloration deserves attention.
    • Check that the cables are mechanically secure. Do this with the electrical system safely shut down and follow the battery and equipment manufacturers’ procedures before disconnecting anything.
    • Make sure the positive terminal is protected. A proper boot, cover, or enclosure helps prevent a dropped tool or other conductive object from creating a dangerous short.
    • Try to move the battery itself. It should be properly restrained rather than relying on the cables to hold it in place.
    • Keep the battery top clean and dry. For flooded lead-acid batteries, inspect electrolyte only according to the battery manufacturer’s instructions and use the specified water and procedure.

    BoatUS notes that poor battery connections increase electrical resistance and can keep equipment—including the starter—from working as designed. It also recommends clean, well-made connections, protected positive terminals, and secure battery mounting. Those are simple checks, but they are worth doing before buying a new battery or chasing a more complicated electrical fault.

    Batteries can deliver enormous current. Remove jewelry, keep sparks and flames away, use eye protection around lead-acid batteries, and follow the manufacturer’s disconnect/reconnect sequence. If you find overheated cables, damaged terminals, questionable wiring, or anything you are not comfortable working around, stop and have a qualified marine electrician inspect it.

    Sources / Further Reading

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